I’m continuing my streak of Asian desserts by looking back at one of my favorite Asian flavors: black sesame. It’s still kind of a niche flavor over here but in Hong Kong (or Japan) it’s a near-staple of any bakery menu. Interestingly, while both white and black sesame seeds are common in Asia, I almost always see black sesame seeds used for sweets. I’m not sure why; maybe it’s because the sooty hues the seeds impart to the finished products, from an inky black for pure sesame paste to a smoky charcoal grey for cakes, are so distinctive. You know right away when you see that dusky color that it’s sesame flavor, just like green means matcha and purple means taro. So efficient!
My latest black sesame love is a rich, intense black sesame ice cream from Humphry Slocombe
Back home, I made a super-simple, super-quick version of black sesame ice cream because my ice cream maker is currently on the blink and in need of repairs. I know – disastrous news for a sweets lover and hopefully I’ll get it fixed before summer arrives. But in the meantime, this no-churn version of ice cream is a very satisfactory way to soothe my ice cream cravings.
When making ice cream without an ice cream maker, you’re looking for ingredients that won’t freeze completely – a sorbet that is mostly water, for example, will just become ice. One ingredient that works really well is condensed milk. The fat and sugar content helps prevent freezing. Whipping cream also works well, since it has high fat content, and whipping it will add in the air that’s usually incorporated with the churning action of an ice cream maker.
There are a few forms in which you’ll find black sesame: just the seeds, or ground up into a paste. Sometimes I’ve found them in an in-between form, ground up but still crumbly and not yet a paste. You’re most likely to find black sesame paste in Asian groceries, and it will give the smoothest texture to your ice cream. If you can’t find it, you can simply grind up sesame seeds in the food processor until they look like very fine crumbs, just like making tahini. You’ll eventually get a paste; if you’re having trouble adding a teaspoon or two or honey can help lubricate them. Homemade sesame paste is naturally more gritty than the store bought version. If you want your ice cream as smooth as possible, you can strain the condensed milk and black sesame mix after you combine it to get rid of the large bits.
The resulting ice cream will melt more quickly than one made in an ice cream maker, but it has the same soft, creamy mouthfeel and a full sesame flavor.
The other Humphry Slocombe flavor we had that night at dinner was an intriguingly sweet and salty white miso ice cream. Miso is a prime example of umami, the elusive fifth flavor best described as savory. Mixing it into caramel gives it a rich, salt undertone very comparable to salted caramel. There are several varieties of miso available but white miso has the lightest, most delicate flavor, which works well for a dessert. Start out with about a tablespoon in this caramel recipe and see what you think.
When I see black sesame these days, it’s often paired with matcha, but I think the white miso is just as interesting – it’s a very earthy, yin-yang mix of flavors. Just for fun I threw some mochi bits on top: they’re kind of the equivalent of mini marshmallows, chewy and sweet.
When my ice cream maker’s back in action, I’ll be making a batch of black sesame ice cream in the traditional way, but right now I’m well content. Happy March!
Black Sesame Ice Cream
- 14 oz sweetened condensed milk
- 3 tablespoons black sesame paste or ground black sesame seeds
- 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 1/2 cups whipping cream
White Miso Caramel
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 3/4 cup whipping cream
- 1 tablespoon white miso
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, room temperature
For the ice cream:
- Combine condensed milk, sesame paste, vanilla extract, and salt in a stand mixer bowl. Beat on medium speed until fully combined. Strain into a separate bowl.
- Whip cream to soft peaks. Fold it into the condensed milk mixture.
- Pour into a 5"x9" loaf pan or other shallow container. Cover and freeze for at least six hours.
For the caramel:
- Combine sugar and 1/4 cup water in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat.
- Meanwhile, bring the cream and miso to a simmer in separate small saucepan, stirring to combine. Turn heat to low and keep warm.
- Continue cooking until sugar mixture is dark amber, about 6-8 minutes. Do not let the mixture burn!
- Remove from heat and add the cream slowly; mixture will bubble up furiously and settle down. Stir to combine. Add in butter and stir until melted and incorporated.
- Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature before using.
Anita Chu, also known as pastrygirl, is a baker, writer, and photographer with a passion for pastry. She trained at Tante Marie's Cooking School and is the author of Field Guide to Cookies, Field Guide to Candy, and Lollipop Love. Anita lives in San Francisco with her husband, daughter, and dog Max. 
Mm, I love sesame everything! Speaking of which, have you tried the sesame ice cream from Matcha Love (inside the Mitsuwa supermarkets)? Their sesame ice cream (and their matcha) are both delicious. The idea of miso in sweets still scares me a bit, but your reasoning that it’s kind of like salted caramel makes it sound a lot more yummy.
Hi Heather,
I have not tried Matcha Love – I’ll have to look out for it next time I go to Mitsuwa!
I was a little hesitant to try miso in ice cream as well but Humphry Slocombe convinced me! Try using white miso as it’s the mildest and start with a small amount, see what you think!
I would have never thought that you could use black sesame seeds in ice cream! Does it taste like any “typical” flavor or is it in a class of its own?
Hi Tori,
Actually there isn’t much flavor difference between white and black sesame – it’s pretty much the same! But maybe the color difference makes it seem like there is a difference! If you’ve had tahini that’s what sesame paste tastes like.
I think it’s just a matter of time before we start to see sesame seeds used more in cooking and baking in North America. In the meantime, I’m going to dream about this ice cream and that amazing caramel!
Oh my gosh, this makes me wish I could eat dairy! Do you think it would work with coconut milk?
Hi Shannon,
You know, I haven’t make ice cream with coconut milk so I’m not sure a straight substitution would work here. But I know there are coconut milk ice cream recipes on the web, so you could just add in a few tablespoons of sesame paste and make your own version of sesame ice cream!
Looks amazing!! Can’t wait to try your recipe!
YUMMY! This looks so delish!!! Thanks for sharing this great recipe!
What a unique ice cream recipe! I love the black sesame seeds added. I’ve seen them in the store but never knew what to make with them!
I wonder if black sesame seeds have a benefit to eating them? They do make the dish pretty but I wonder if they have any health benefits. Off to Google.
This is unlike anything I’ve ever had, I’m so intrigued!
Wow! This looks delish! What a crazy unique recipe!
What unique flavors! I love experimenting with another cultures tastes, so this will be a fun one to try!
This has got to be the most creative and interesting ice cream I have ever seen! I’ve never tired a savory and sweet ice cream like this. Love it!
I had a dessert very similar to this years ago at a restaurant while on vacation and I’ve never forgotten it! I’m so eager to try making this at home!
I am so intrigued by this ice cream. It looks delicious!
This ice cream looks SO good! And I bet matcha would be a perfect match! Must try this one!
I love anything sesame. I keep jars filled with them for sprinkling on anything I can. This is such a cool recipe. I have to give this a whirl.
Anita, this ice cream looks amazing! I can’t believe it’s a no-churn recipe. I don’t think I’ve ever had black sesames in a dessert. In Middle Eastern and East Asian food, regular sesame seeds are pretty prevalent, but not black ones. I’ll definitely have to try this out!